Category: Articles by Old Red Old Ten Scenic Byway Committee members and remembering articles written by Delores Klusman, longtime committee member and volunteer (9.8.1940 – 11.6.2019)

In June 2011, five young people began their walk across North Dakota. Beginning on June 3^rd at Montana they reached Bismarck on June 16^th.  Because of other commitments, they paused their hike and restarted on June 1, 2012 and completed their journey at the Red River of the North on June 13^th.

Many of you likely saw them walking, encountered them in local cafes or saloons, or discussed them when you gathered with area folks that June. They wrote a book, The Walk Across North Dakota, about their journey which was published by NDSU Press in 2016.

They were not the first to walk across North Dakota. In the 1910s travelers on foot were not unusual. A Dickinson Press story on December 26, 1914 titled “German Hiker” began with “The Red Trail seems to be the route for hikers and long distance pedestrians as another lover of the sport visited our city last Saturday.”

That person was Reginald von Bruenig. A recent immigrant from Germany, von Bruenig had brothers serving in the German armed forces in the war in Europe that recently begun. Three of his brothers had been killed.

The United States official policy at that time of the war was neutral. Reginald von Bruenig wanted to help the soldiers serving in the conflict and decided that raising money for the Red Cross would be an appropriate way of helping them.

He proposed a bet that he could walk from Missoula to Chicago in three months. The bet was made with the University Club of Missoula. Business people put up $2,500. If Reginald makes it to Chicago before three months are up, $1,000 will be provided to the German Red Cross. If he doesn’t make it there in three months the $1,000 will go to the English Red Cross. The remaining $1,500 was to go a young lady in Missoula who was to marry Reginald when he returned from the hike.

There were strict rules that he had to comply with in order to win the bet, some of which were; He could not accept nor ask for donations. Any money needed to finance the journey had to be raised during the journey. He carried postcards that he sold along the way. Reginald had to obtain signatures of mayors in the towns he passed through and county officials in county seat town.

Von Bruenig carried a letter from the mayor of Missoula describing the purpose of the journey he was on. Reginald presented the letter to the local officials when he was obtaining their signatures. His travelling companion was a well-trained bulldog.

He entered North Dakota about December 17, 2014 and reached Fargo on the 31^st. He walked across North Dakota in 15 days. The young folks in 2011/2012 likely followed close to the same route he hiked; but it took them 27 days in the summer. Von Bruenig walked across North Dakota in December. The average temperature in Bismarck for December 1914 was 7.3 degrees Fahrenheit. There are 148 years of data for temperature in Bismarck and December 1914 is currently ranked as the 17^th coldest.

Reginald von Bruenig left Missoula on November 11, 2014 and had to be in Chicago by February 11, 1915. He arrived there on the February 4 a week ahead of schedule and won the bet. He took the train back to Missoula.

by Bennett R. Kutischta, OROT Committee Chair

February 9, 2022

The website, fatbirder.com, describes birding in North Dakota as follows:

“Scenic North Dakota; Birding Hot Spot! – Lewis & Clark were impressed with North Dakota, its culture and beauty. Now, little traffic, expansive landscapes, farming and ranching, scattered towns and friendly people make North Dakota a prime destination for good old-fashioned relaxation. With maps helping you get around the back roads of the state, birdwatchers can maneuver the state easily. Birds, butterflies, scenery, wildflowers, butterflies, clean air, and wide-open spaces. Buffalo, antelope, meadowlarks, and prairie dogs make this their home. Sunrises and sunsets that will take your breath away. Time and places so beautiful, so special, words cannot describe.”

That could have been written about Morton and Stark Counties, home to the Old Red Old Ten Scenic Byway. Whether you are an experience birder looking for the one certain species or you are just birdwatching as you enjoy the drive, we welcome you to see what the Old Red Trail has to offer.

The Western Meadowlark is calling you. It is beckoning you to come and hear its song. The Meadowlark is waiting for you in the native prairie along North Dakota’s Old Red Old Ten Scenic Byway, also known as the Old Red Trail, from Mandan to Dickinson.

The ecosystem along the Old Red Old Ted may appear singular but it is most diverse. You will encounter ponds, lakes, and wetlands, woods and grasslands, buttes and valleys, and the Heart River and its tributary streams.

Following the Old Red Old Ten you will travel through farming and ranching country.  And, as such, there are miles of fences and fence posts that hold the wire.  The Western Meadowlark can be found perched on a post. Birds enjoy sitting on posts and can be easily spotted from your car. 

You will see cattle along your birding journey on the OROT.  Remember that cattle are not your enemy; but they also are not your friend.  Enjoy watching them from a distance and think about the bison, a bovine creature related to cattle.  As bison moved across the prairie, so do cattle, only on a smaller, controlled basis.  The birds you are searching for shared the same habitat as bison and both flourished on the prairie and they coexist well with cattle.

Sighting in Morton and Stark Counties are plentiful. Hotspots listed on Ebird.org (Explore Hotspots – eBird)  include:

• Missouri River Natural Area (46^o 50’ 09” N Latitude 100^o 51’ 53” W Longitude}
• Mandan Union Cemetery
• Mandan Northern Great Plains Research Laboratory (46^o 48’ 43” N   100^o 54’ 39 W) From the west end of Mandan, go south on ND 6.  You will cross over the Heart River and immediately on the west will be the entrance to Northern Great Plains.  If you come during normal business hours (Monday – Friday from 8:00 am to 5:00 pm) you are required to check in at the main office. Northern Great Plains Research Laboratory is operated by the US Department of Agriculture, Agriculture Research Service and was established in 1912.  One of its first mission was to develop shrubs and trees for the prairie.  Trees and shrubs that were planted over 100 years ago have been followed by scientists over the past century and provide unique habitat that attracts species that are difficult to find elsewhere in North Dakota. 
• Mandan Porsborg Dam
• Crown Butte Dam (46 ^o 51’ 55” N   101 ^o 05’ 34” W)
• Sweet Briar Lake (46 ^o 52’ 00” N 101 ^o 16’ 14” W)
• New Salem Gaebe Pond (46 50’043” N 101 27’ 02” W)
• Storm Creek Lake Wildlife Management Area (46 53’ 40 N 101 36’ 20” W) From the intersection of Morton County Road 139 (on the OROT) and County Road 86 go north.  At one mile you will cross over I-94 (Exit 120).  Continue north on 86 for two miles and then turn west on 36^th Street.  After 1 ½ miles on 36^th St. you will be at the road into Storm Creek.  Go ¼ mile north at you will be at Storm Creek.
• Glen Ullin Memorial Park (46 ^o 48’ 50” N 101 ^o 51’ 02” W)
• Hebron Kreigs Pond (46 ^o 53’ 54” N 102 ^o 01’ 48” W)
• Schnell Recreation Area (46 ^o 53’ 26” N 102 ^o 15’ 48” W) From Richardton, go east on Old Red Old Ten (Stark County) for 1 mile.  Turn north on 87^th Avenue SW.  At one mile north the road will turn east and after another mile you will come to the entrance to Schnell Recreation Area.
• Dickinson Patterson Lake Recreation Area (46 ^o 52’ 00” N 102 ^o 51’ 07” W)
• Haymarsh Slough (4655’ 34” N 101 52’ 35” W) From Glen Ullin, follow Morton County Route 88 north.  About 3 miles north of town you will cross over I-94 (Exit 108), Continue on Route 88.
• Lake Tschida (46 35’ 47” N 101 48’ 37”) From Glen Ullin go south on ND 49 for 17 miles and you will come to Heart Butte Dam and Lake Tschida.  Access to the Downstream Recreation Area, is off ND 49 north of the dam.

Do as Burl Ives sang in Holly Jolly Christmas, “Say hello to friends you know, and everyone you meet.”  Wave to the farmers and ranchers you meet and they will wave back. Visit with them, if the opportunity arises, and you will make new friends.

Most of all, enjoy your birding journey along the Old Red Old Ten Scenic Byway. Visit the “Birding” page of this website to learn more.

Morton County and Stark County roads are marked well. Road markers.  Both counties have street name signing at intersections.  With a map and paying attention to signing, you will be able to travel across this land

On gravel roads, there is no lane definition.  When sight distance is restricted, such as ascending a hill, slow down and keep to the right.

~ Ben Kubischta, President

Old Red Old Ten Scenic Byway Committee

The leaves are falling, the nights are getting colder, and sometimes the north winds are blowing – – –

I think fall is upon us. Most of the wheat fields are harvested, sunflowers are hanging their heads, and the corn is getting ready to be chopped. Fall is a beautiful time of year and the only bad thing is that we know winter will coming. However, it is a good time to get out and drive the OLD RED TRAIL and see the beauty.

A major undertaking is happing in Taylor. The Taylor Opera House will receive a new facade and its interior is being completely renovated. Public input received by the city was overwhelming in favor of restoring the building. Opera house committee member Vickie Solemsaas said, “There is a definite need to keep the building functional and available.” “It is the only building in the area of some size where you could have a sizable function in it and it has a kitchen facility and the stage.” Taylor City Council Member said, ”We’ve got a vision of putting a bigger porch on the front of it and giving it that early 1900’s look and appeal” Congratulations to Taylor and the OLD RED TRAIL Committee looks forward to seeing the updated facility.

This past week the OLD RED TRAIL Committee met in the new facility of Old 10 Bar and Grill in Mandan. It is located at 417 East Main Street in Mandan. It is a great restaurant and has a meeting room. Thanks for having us meet there.

The August meeting of OLD RED TRAIL Committee was held at the Historical Museum in Hebron. It is an awesome facility with a collection of local and regional artifacts. The museum was established in 1979, is open to the public and free upon appointment. This is one museum among several along the OLD RED TRAIL.

Driving the OLD RED TRAIL is so fascinating and beautiful – – – particularity at this time of year with all the fall colors. Do get out and make a trip along the Trail.

There is no need to go to India or anywhere else to find peace. You will find that deep place of silence right in your room, your garden, or even your bathtub. Quote by Elizabeth Kubler-Ross.

Until next time, Be well, do good works, and see you on the OLD RED TRAIL.

~ Delores Klusman

September 30, 2019

Longtime Old Red Old Ten Scenic Byway Committee member and volunteer (9.8.1940 – 11.6.2019)

OLD RED/OLD TEN SCENIC BYWAY
Before Highways there were trails

Breathe——breathe in and breathe out——-breathe in and breathe out——-Be grateful for the gift of that breath. Be grateful for the simple, ordinary things. Be grateful for the people who fill your life with grace.

As I think of the all the things to be thankful for, none of them would be possible without the gift of that breathe. This fall has been a time of being thankful.

This fall I traveled 6,000 miles and seven weeks to the top of Washington, to the bottom of California, and through the Grand Canyon, Zion National Park, Salt Lake City, and home bound to North Dakota. I visited many relatives and friends along the way and this included two weddings. I witnessed some spectacular scenery, had to do a four hour detour because of the forest fire on Interstate 5, and totally enjoyed the variation of terrain – – – — – nurseries, forests, ranch land, dairy farms, desert, mountains, rocks, etc. What a wonderful country that we live in and we should be thankful.

As I traveled I drove along many Byways and they were all different. Going through the mountain Byways in Oregon, the Columbia River Highway Scenic Byway, McKenzie Pass – Santiam Pass Scenic Byway, and others in Oregon. California is filled with scenic drives – – – just a couple —– the Byway from the Beaches of LaJolla to the Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, all of Highway 101, and the drives around the Santa Monica Mountains. It is a reminder that most of the Byways in America take us off the beaten path and into rural and smaller towns. During this holiday season, do take a drive along the OLD RED TRAIL and visit the shops.

I did make it to the Bread and Wine Saturday at the Abby in Richardton. What a wonderful day with delicious breads (and fruit cake), wine, and gifts from the Gift Shop. The Brothers of the Abby are most hospitable and helpful.

This past month the OLD RED TRAIL Committee has the opportunity to meet at Susie’s Stash in Richardton. What a wonderful store full of fabric and accessories for all. Thank you for having us. I would suggest that if you are a seamstress, you make a trip to Susie’s and check out her store.

Also this fall we met at Suzy Q’s in Mandan at the Heritage Plaza. She has awesome antiques and is a Pride of Dakota Store. Make a stop here also. Thanks Suzy.

This month is a busy time in all the towns with school Christmas programs, basketball games, wrestling matches, Santa days, etc. I hope all of you participate in your community activities along the OLD RED TRAIL.

Until next time, Be Well, Do Good Works, and see you on the OLD RED TRAIL.

~ Delores Klusman

December 3, 2018

OLD RED/OLD TEN SCENIC BYWAY
Before Highways there were trails

The 7th Annual Old Red Trail Rummage Sale along the OLD RED/OLD TEN BYWAY will be held on Saturday June 2, 2018. It is two months from now and 8 weeks away. It is coming up very fast and I hope many of you are getting your closets cleaned out and ready for the sale. As in the past years we are expecting hundreds of folks to be traveling the OLD RED TRAIL to the various towns for the sale.

Sometimes we can write many sentences but nothing captures the thoughts like a poem. The following poem was written by Viola Reif of New Salem in 1994. She was a resident of New Salem from 1931 – 1992 and was 104 years of age on April 26, 2012 on her passing day.

Old Number Ten

It used to be the main highway,
Quite some time ago.
We traveled it most every day,
‘Twas the only way to go.

A super highway took its place
And stretches across our state
So trucks and cars of every make
Could travel in great haste.

I chose to travel this old back road
Once more before it snowed.
Cars were few and far between,
I secretly enjoyed the quiet scene.

Along the way wildflowers grew,
Daisies and milkweed were some I knew,
Grass and foxtails – – -no longer green,
A perfect Fall day. A day to dream.

Now there are homes along the way,
And also enormous round bales of hay.
The scene changes every mile to two,
‘Tis Autums splendor – – a peaceful view.

The road has hills and curves that wind
And I couldn’t see far ahead,
So like our life until we find
God’s way –and are willing to be led.

Until next time, Be Well, Do Good Works, and see you on the OLD RED TRAIL.

~ Delores Klusman

April 8, 2018

Longtime Old Red Old Ten Scenic Byway Committee member and volunteer (9.8.1940 – 11.6.2019)

OLD RED/OLD TEN SCENIC BYWAY
Before Highways there were trails

In the last article of OLD RED/OLD TEN I wrote about the many historic churches along the Old Red Trail. One church that has survived in spite of the loss of the town is Sims Lutheran Church.

It speaks to the faith and courage of the congregation. “Built on a rock the church doth stand, Even when steeples are falling; Crumbled have spires in every land, Bells still are chiming and calling”. These are words of a great hymn but certainly typify the Sims Scandinavian Evangelical Lutheran Church which was founded on September 30, 1884 with 35 people. It is the oldest Lutheran congregation west of the Missouri River in North Dakota.

The members of the Sims Lutheran church built a parsonage in 1884 and the church services were held on the second floor and the pastor’s living area was on the first floor. Rev. O. J. Norby was the first pastor with a salary of $300.00 per year. In 1897 the congregation decided to plan and build a church building. The first meeting in the new church building was held in 1898; however many furnishings were added in later years.

Sims was once a town of approximately 1000 people and was begun when the railroad reached Sims in 1879. The town was surveyed and laid out in 1883. The main industry was coal but also the early pioneers found that there was a bed of clay and bricks were manufactured. Bricks were made for the capital in Bismarck as well as houses, the hotel, stores, and homes in Sims. The history of this community is rich, unique, and extraordinary. Through the many years the town has become a ghost town, but the church is strong and vibrant. Services are held twice a month.

In the beginning years of 2000-2002, Joel and Donna Johnson of Sims (and Almont) applied for a grant from “Preservation North Dakota – Save America’s Treasures” to help in restoration of the old church and parsonage. The grant was received and countless hours by many people were spent cleaning, painting, wallpapering and decorating. The parsonage is beautiful and restored to the days of 1884. The church is so exceptional with the raised pulpit, organ, altar and the entire interior.

Probably the hi-lite for the Sims Lutheran Church was a visit from former First Lady Laura Bush in October, 2008. First Lady Laura Bush was honorary chairwoman of the Save America’s Treasures. It was a very special day for Sims with a bustling of activity, a potluck, stories to share, etc. She noted that places like the Sims church are “America’s story” and represent “the values that make America strong.” She praised the work of Preservation North Dakota as well, as they work to preserve prairie churches like Sims Lutheran.

Joel and Donna Johnson of Sims and Almont, the folks who spearheaded the restoration of the church and parsonage, would be happy to give tours of the area in the spring and summer.

Be well, do good work and see you on OLD RED.

***The above information was taken from the book, “A Prairie Heritage” and articles from the Almont/Sims website: www.sims-almont.us

Why not take a drive along OLD RED/OLD TEN and view some of our historic churches?

Did you know? OLD RED/OLD TEN SCENIC BYWAY is only five miles longer than Interstate 94. Be well, do good work, and see you on OLD RED.

~ Delores Klusman

January 20, 2012

Longtime Old Red Old Ten Scenic Byway Committee member and volunteer (9.8.1940 – 11.6.2019)

OLD RED/OLD TEN SCENIC BYWAY
Before Highways there were trails

It seems that this week we should feature the beautiful golf courses along OLD RED/OLD TEN. We could have been playing golf this past week. However, I will wait a couple months until the courses are all green and we can load up the clubs. So, let’s look at the Historic Churches along The OLD RED/OLD TEN SCENIC BYWAY.

North Dakota is a place where people’s faith is large. You can see this in the many beautiful churches that we treasure. The European settlers that came from Germany, Russia, Norway, Sweden, Ireland, Hungary and other places came to start new lives and brought their faith traditions with them. The immigrants came west on the Northern Pacific Railroad. Frequently, their community’s church was one of the first buildings built, sometimes even before people’s houses!! Or the congregation was organized and they met in a home.

The oldest organized church along the SCENIC BYWAY is St. Joseph’s Catholic Church in Mandan and was organized in 1879. Others are: St. John’s United Church of Christ in Hebron which was organized in 1885, First Presbyterian/United Church of Christ in New Salem was organized in 1901 and Salem UCC purchased the church in 1999, Assumption Abby in Richardton was begun in 1906, Sims Scandinavian Lutheran Church was organized in 1884, St. Patrick’s Church was the first Catholic Parish in Dickinson and was established by Irish immigrants in 1885, St. Joseph’s Catholic Parish in Dickson was formed by German speaking families in 1902, St. John Lutheran Church in Dickinson was organized by Minnesota German Lutherans in 1901, United Church of Christ in Dickinson was established in 1887.

And others are the Sacred Heart Monastery of Richardton (for over 100 years the Benedictine Sisters have served the people of western North Dakota), St. Clément’s in Haymarsh, St. Joseph’s south of Glen Ullin, St. Elizabeth’s of Lefor. Most of the churches have been rebuilt, refurbished, and renovated. Some of the earlier wood frame churches burned to the ground in earlier years and were rebuilt with brick and stone. Why not take a drive along OLD RED/OLD TEN and view some of our historic churches?

Did you know? OLD RED/OLD TEN SCENIC BYWAY is only five miles longer than Interstate 94. Be well, do good work, and see you on OLD RED.

~ Delores Klusman

January 6, 2012

Longtime Old Red Old Ten Scenic Byway Committee member and volunteer (9.8.1940 – 11.6.2019)

OLD RED/OLD TEN SCENIC BYWAY
Before Highways there were trails